Now I’m going to start out by saying I used to think I was pretty good at this stuff. I’ve tried many different ways to create a replica of the Gottex one piece picture in the previous post and I’ve not had the level of success I’d hoped for. I have been able to reproduce all the bits in all the right places, only without the level of gathering found in the Gottex sample. I’m a bit disappointed in my self, but then again I never did like gathers in lycra!
I’ve had a number of possible solutions offered, with some being close and some being, well, not so close. I’ve tried to reproduce the closest of these with, as yet, very little success. We need to start from the assumption that this is a deep plunge halter similar to the halter neck one piece on this site, except that it’s plunging all the way down to the waist (or at least the center of the ‘knot’ that sits on the waist). So we’re looking at the following pattern (no seams included) as the start point. Redraw the deeper plunge first.
Helen is correct in firstly moving the very bottom of the front panel to the back panel as well … leaving us with the basic ungathered pattern as illustrated above on the right. Ok here’s where the first problem starts. We can obviously cut and slash to open up the panel and add the volume for the gathers … the amount is dictated by two things: the amount of gather desired and the practical consideration of where the grain of the fabric lies (obviously there isn’t a grain line in a stretch textile, but we don’t want horizontal stretch on the 45 degree line or we’ll be looking at ripples in all the wrong places). Sounds fairly easy, but so far I haven’t managed to resolve both. Below is an illustration of my best result to date: The object is to slash and open such that you have an even distribution of gathering with the plunge at the waistline as close to horizontal as possible and allowing for the same amount of gather from the waist to crotch along the center front. This isn’t easy! Considering my front V is 15 degrees and I’m looking for a 180 degree straight line and I have 5 and a half slashes to open (don’t for get the half at the bottom), I end up with 180-15 = 165 … then 165/5.5 = 30 degrees per slash … or as illustrated below.
Which ends up looking like (no seams still) ….
… but with no concept of how it is yet to be put together. Of those who have sent in remotely plausible solutions, this is where most end up and then say … just twist it together as you sew it … how is that exactly people? How do we do (the illusion of) the knot at the waist? I’ve been offered a number of solutions involving hiding seams behind the twist but none of them result in the type of twist as shown. Helen has suggested the lining plays a part in securing the various sections of gathering and equally suggests this is not a task for the feint hearted … and while I think she’s certainly on to something here I’m yet to work out how she’s doing it (I have asked her but she’s a little busy at the moment). I reckon the solution is right before my eyes only I’m being blinded by a very simply illusion.
So that’s where we’re at … a partial understanding of the concept without any real solution to how to actually put the twist together. Anyone want to throw in the next step or sugest the appropriate back step?? Anyone have the particular garment in question that they want to sell me? 
Anyway, Sorry for the lack of updates … I’m in the middle of planning a wedding so I’m very distracted right now by more important things like dresses, flowers and wedding cakes!
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Thanks Lesley … I can’t wait to give this a try … makes sense. I seriously appreciate the effort you’ve gone to in order to share your knowledge. Now if only I can find the time to test it!! Will let you know how I go!
Sorry for the dodgy MSPaint labelling!
This is what the finished pattern should basically look like.
To sew:
Finish off the edge between the notches with a rolled edge, or even with just a overlocked edge. .
Sew one “side” together (following the red arrows), stopping at the notches.
Then insert the other side through the hole created, taking care that you don’t accidentally twist the garment.
Pull it through until the finished edge between the notches is in the centre of the hole. You should then be able to pin together the other seam and sew it.
If you need to, adjust the holes (make them smaller) to enhance the twist effect.
And that should work! You should be able to then attach the side seams to the back, and this tension will make the twist pull the gathers tighter.
I did make this is small scale, but althugh it worked, the gathering was too lumpy on such a small piece! I will try to do a bigger scale pattern to show how it works.
This is what the traced pattern should look like
Open up the gather lines.
using CAD, you could make the amounts more even, it’s harder in small scale!
I made the neckline closer to centre front as well.
Slash the red line from side seam to centre front, but the gather lines from centre front out to sides
Marking in the slash and open lines – you could vary the placement of these as to where you want the gathers to originate from.
Note the black notch mark on the red line, close to the centre front. On a real life pattern, this would be about 4cm from centre front.
I was wondering ow you had progressed with this pattern.
I did have an idea that might work – I’ve done it in very small scale, and my camera doesn’t like photographing that small, so please bear with the blurry pictures.
Starting with the main shape:
I think the best way to do it is by draping; there’s a book called wrap and drape for fashion that would help..i think
Stuart, I tried doing some of this when I first saw it but I am such a beginner sewer that I gave up early on. However, when you first posted this, I was working on a cowl neck top and that got me thinking a little. I honestly believe there is a waist seam on the front that is just hidden by the gathers. I think the top is made out of one piece and the bottom piece is also made out of one. The bottom to be made with a dart (if you will) around the navel to allow for the knot and gathers. I apologize for my inability to get what I see in my head out in words but I really think making the front top one piece similar to that of a cowl neck and sewing the bottom separately so there is only one seam in the knot may get close. ??
6′th page
hope this will help
5′th page
4′th page
3′ed page
2′nt page
5 pages form the book ‘pattern magic’ might help you
They may not have cared about the grain in the same way as you do – with all the twisting and gathering, a few extra rimples at the top half, or indeed photoshopped away on the bottom part may not have been on their list of things to avoid?
Did anyone try to make a knot, see how it relates to a piece of flat fabric?
How about along the lines of this
http://www.jalie.com/product_printing_guide/2788.pdf
page 5 has the relevant info.
JT
can this help you
http://www.bravissimo.com/products/clothing/shirts-and-tops/bravissimo/yn11-details.aspx?colour=white&ck=0vrbFpYh92Q%3d
I love a challenge! I might not be as experienced as your other readers but I’ll throw my hat in the ring all the same. This one piqued my interests.
I think there is definitely a seam across the waistline. It’s cleverly disguised by the gathers (and possibly airbrushed out for the picture, ‘cuz she’s flawless!)… but it has to be there, surely?
This is all theory and untested but what if you were to still add in the same amount of slash and spread but divide the front pattern in two at the waistline.
The lower part, at the centre front line, would need an opening of some sort just below where you want the knot to be. It would be smarter to mark that position on the modified halter pattern before you spread, measuring it after would be a pain. Something like an eyelet or a slash that’s wide enough for the upper half to pass through but not so large as to “show”. It should be a tight fit. Of course, this hole should be faced for durability.
By having the concealed slash in the lower piece it should be pulled back up to it’s original position (and gathered to the centre) by the upper piece being passed/twisted through the small opening.
The gathers from the waist up are made by twisting the fabric through the opening on the lower half of the pattern. The gathers from the waist down are made by the upper half pulling it back to it’s original position. That should create the effect of the knot while distributing the gathers nice and evenly.
Again, this is all guess work. Your mileage may vary. I’m going to keep an eye out and see what other people come up with.