Now I’m going to start out by saying I used to think I was pretty good at this stuff. I’ve tried many different ways to create a replica of the Gottex one piece picture in the previous post and I’ve not had the level of success I’d hoped for. I have been able to reproduce all the bits in all the right places, only without the level of gathering found in the Gottex sample. I’m a bit disappointed in my self, but then again I never did like gathers in lycra!
I’ve had a number of possible solutions offered, with some being close and some being, well, not so close. I’ve tried to reproduce the closest of these with, as yet, very little success. We need to start from the assumption that this is a deep plunge halter similar to the halter neck one piece on this site, except that it’s plunging all the way down to the waist (or at least the center of the ‘knot’ that sits on the waist). So we’re looking at the following pattern (no seams included) as the start point. Redraw the deeper plunge first.
Helen is correct in firstly moving the very bottom of the front panel to the back panel as well … leaving us with the basic ungathered pattern as illustrated above on the right. Ok here’s where the first problem starts. We can obviously cut and slash to open up the panel and add the volume for the gathers … the amount is dictated by two things: the amount of gather desired and the practical consideration of where the grain of the fabric lies (obviously there isn’t a grain line in a stretch textile, but we don’t want horizontal stretch on the 45 degree line or we’ll be looking at ripples in all the wrong places). Sounds fairly easy, but so far I haven’t managed to resolve both. Below is an illustration of my best result to date: The object is to slash and open such that you have an even distribution of gathering with the plunge at the waistline as close to horizontal as possible and allowing for the same amount of gather from the waist to crotch along the center front. This isn’t easy! Considering my front V is 15 degrees and I’m looking for a 180 degree straight line and I have 5 and a half slashes to open (don’t for get the half at the bottom), I end up with 180-15 = 165 … then 165/5.5 = 30 degrees per slash … or as illustrated below.
Which ends up looking like (no seams still) ….
… but with no concept of how it is yet to be put together. Of those who have sent in remotely plausible solutions, this is where most end up and then say … just twist it together as you sew it … how is that exactly people? How do we do (the illusion of) the knot at the waist? I’ve been offered a number of solutions involving hiding seams behind the twist but none of them result in the type of twist as shown. Helen has suggested the lining plays a part in securing the various sections of gathering and equally suggests this is not a task for the feint hearted … and while I think she’s certainly on to something here I’m yet to work out how she’s doing it (I have asked her but she’s a little busy at the moment). I reckon the solution is right before my eyes only I’m being blinded by a very simply illusion.
So that’s where we’re at … a partial understanding of the concept without any real solution to how to actually put the twist together. Anyone want to throw in the next step or sugest the appropriate back step?? Anyone have the particular garment in question that they want to sell me?
Anyway, Sorry for the lack of updates … I’m in the middle of planning a wedding so I’m very distracted right now by more important things like dresses, flowers and wedding cakes!