As everyone knows, I prefer the flat pattern method of patternmaking … especially considering I work mostly with stretch fabrics. I tend to think draping is for those who can’t visualise a three dimensional form in two dimensions. Well that really isn’t very fair of me. Not everyone is a geometric and mathematical nerd. I must admit to using a body form now and then … but it’s not really something I tend to use for ready to wear so I never bothered to buy one in any kind of standard size like all those professional designers do.
Karen asked me how I could so quickly brush aside the need for one when I’d never actually used one in standard sizing. I rattled off the fast excuse of …
me: “Well darling there is no such thing as a standard size and besides the professional one’s are way too expensive to justify changing my techniques”.
Again she came back with the well thought out response of …
her: “If nobody wants them then why do they make them?”
me: “They are fine if you are happy to stick with the manufacturers idea of what a standard size is.”
her: “Why don’t they adjust?”
me: “The cheap home sewist versions do adjust to the shape of the person, but professional ready to wear types are of a fixed proportion and can only be bought in set sizes.”
her: “Isn’t that what you do though?”
her: “So because you do something slightly different then they are wrong and you are right?”
About this point in time I was thinking she’s just trying to be smart but I found her challenge quite fair …
me: “Well I don’t think they, whoever they is, are wrong … just different?”
her: “If I bought you one would you use it?”
OK, I thought, she’s been planning something all along and she’s fishing for information on what to buy … let’s see if she’s done her research and realises exactly how expensive they are!
me: “I’ve never really thought about it … I’d certainly like to give it a go but I really wouldn’t be bothered with the adjustable types … I’d want to be able to stick pins straight in and have something strong and sturdy.”
her: “I figured that. They sell those on Amazon. Do you want one?”
Cough, splutter … well duh … of course I want one if she’s offering! But I did just got beaten at my own game. I really don’t deserve her do I? So off we went to look at PGM body forms on Amazon. These are awesome … they have legs! … of course the only real problem is deciding which standard size to buy.
I usually work in an Australian size 10 and grade up or down from there … it’s what I’m used to. There isn’t a direct equivalent to my idea of an Australian size 10 however. See the following table …
| Aus Metric 10 | Aus Imp 10 | Dummy 4 | Dummy 6 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust | 84cm | 33in | 33.5in | 34.5in |
| Waist | 65cm | 25.6in | 24.5in | 25.5in |
| Hips | 89cm | 35in | 34.5in | 35.5in |
| Neck | 35.6cm | 14in | 12.5in | 13in |
| NapetoWaist | 39.4cm | 15.5in | 16in | 19.25in |
| Shoulder | 11.8cm | 4.65in | 4.75in | 5in |
| Chest | 31.2cm | 12.3in | 12.38in | 12.75in |
| Underbust | 70cm | 27.6in | 27in | 28in |
| Back | 33.5cm | 13.2in | 13.5in | 13.75in |
| Waist to Knee | 58.5cm | 23in | 22.38in | 22.68in |
| Thigh | 48.75cm | 19.2in | 19.25in | 20in |
| Calf | 34.5cm | 13.58in | 12.25in | 12.375in |
| Ankle | 20cm | 7.87in | 9in | 9.25in |
The first two columns of measurements are my idea of an Australian size 10. The second two columns are the closest PGM dummies in USA size 4 and 6. I’m leaning toward the Size 6 dummy but as I’m not used to selecting these things, could someone offer their opinion on which to select? I’m quite used to adjustables at college and I know how to pad up … but when it comes to professional fixed dummies … wll I’ve only ever used what was already supplied by the employer … I’ve never had to actually buy one … oh how ashamed am I right now! I figure, my alternative fashion experiment may well be the perfect opportunity to … err… try something new.
Tags:
Hi Stuart
The 4 looks closest to your measurements, and you are better to have your form a bit smaller rather than larger, as you can always pad it out.
I have a dress form, only because I was given it from the first place I worked at – it was my exact measurements! Well, used to be…..
I’m a flat patternmaker too, and really only use it when designing collars, and draped pleats like wedding gowns often have. But the most limiting factor, and you would no doubt find this too with swimwear, is the underbust is far too big for anything fitted under the bust, eg empire lines. I really recommend making sure the underbust shaping is similar to what you need.
Hello Stuart,
I find your website to be a constant source of inspiration and complete jewel of the web. That aside, the Size 6 form is what I have most encountered being used by independent designers in the US. A few years back when I was running a small clothing label with a few pals from school, we were told by a teacher with experience at FIT that the size 6 was most widely used in their facilities. He then told us of a display company in NY called Rox Studio: http://www.studiorox.com/dressform/dressform.htm
We promptly ordered our size 6 full body form and were very pleased with the result. I hope this comment doesn’t further lead you astray from your PGM purchase and I would send you the measurements of the Rox form, but I am no longer in posession of it (…and why would I be since I can flat it instead!)
PGM is good for some stuff (best muslin ever!) but I don’t recommend the forms (also: do NOT buy their pattern punches, they’re plastic).
I’ve never used a form either Stuart. I occasionally did use retail mannequins because they’re molded after real bodies albeit thin ones. A couple of years ago I bought a dress form after so much pressure to conform, figuring I was missing out on something. I don’t regret the purchase but don’t use it much. The PGM form would make you unhappy. Look at the Alvanon forms, see if someone you know has one. They aren’t like other forms. Ex, there’s actually a bump/mound for the clavicle (etc).
These forms are even less expensive –
http://www.roxydisplayinc.com/webpage/dressforms/femalefull.html
I don’t have a fully body form, but I do have dress form. It’s pretty good.
You might want to try something which I use, a PMG half-size form. I have several professional forms, (different manufacturers) and none of them let you stick the pin straight in, except for the tip. But it works enough to hold paper or fabric. I suggest the half size because it is cheaper and will let you determine if you like working with the form material.
These are actual measurements for Aus 10 Body in metric, Aus 10 Body in imperial, USA 4 Dummy in imperial and USA 6 Dummy in imperial. I know adjustable is more convenient but I find them too flimsy and you can’t push a pin straight into them unless you go sideways … that’s why I really want a solid form … just don’t know which would be best … I’m leaning toward the USA Size 6 Dummy
Are these measurements for stretch knits?
I think an adjustable dress for is better, although is not always accurate, that’s what i think.