This page is reserved for discussion on machines and needles. Anyone can ask a question or pitch in with an answer … you don’t have to wait for me to answer it! Do you want to know how to use a twin needle top stitch, which type of needle to use for lycra or how to do use the binding attachment? Well here is where you can seek advice or give it!
If you’ve read any of my blog you’ll know I keep trying to avoid the topic of sewing because I need to place emphasis on the pattern making. Afterall that’s what the site is all about … teaching fashion students how to make patterns for ready-to-wear close fit stretch garments. While the site isn’t necessarily aimed at home sewists, I do realise there’s probably more of you reading the site these days! Let’s try to keep to sewing questions rather than duplicating pattern topics covered elsewhere on the site, although I understand sometimes overlap is necessary!
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Hi Stewart great site… I leve it. Do you know where I can take classes or seminars to learn in a more profesional way the makings of ballet costumes???
Hi Stuart:
I want to start making swimwear but I haven´t been able to find the vulcanized flat rubber. Do you know where I can get it from?
Thanks
Hi Franci … if you want to do T shirts then you must have a cover stitcher … it’s essential. You don’t need to overlock hems first … you actually get an attachment that folds the hem and cover stitches it in place all in one action … FAST. Anything else is not going to be competitive or commercially viable in any real sense.
Hi Stuar, you site is supperb!!!
And i’m so thankful for your interest on helping peplewithyou more than useful advises!!!
Ill ask you a advise if i may!!!
I’m starting mine tshirt business, God willing soon and i’m very in a dilema!!!I about to buy a cover seam,cos i thnk that making tshirt withought one will be very tiring and slow.
And i’ve been offered a union spetial,7yrs old fully service very cheap,but i don’t know nothing about this make(as i’m brasilian living in south africa, an i think its a American make machine) are you familiar with the brand?would you advise me to go ahead on the deal? and i also sow a tishirt with overlocker sithing like on arm hole top and botom,like a very flat seam but i can see that been overlocked before they did it.Wouldyou know what kind machine make that kind of stich if you know what i’m talkng about!!!
Many thanks in advance
Franci
Highlead are one of the better makers and the GC1998 MDZ is their latest direct drive model, they do also offer a conventional looking model GC128-MD3-106.
Note a lot of the older industrial makes/models such as Singer are now obsolete so better to go with a modern maker and model.
Natalie. The best advice I will give you when buying a brand new machine is to go to the retailer and try the machine yourself and make sure you take your own fabric samples with you!!! Ask the college where they bought their machines and who the mechanic is then pay them both a visit and talk talk talk, then sew sew sew. If they aren’t willing to help you find something that you are comfortable with then go somewhere else. What you are looking for is pretty standard and should be easy to find … the retailer should be ably to help without confusing you.
Hi can you please give me advice? I want to buy a new industrial machine that is like the singer/brother/juki ones we used in college. But I am not sure what to ask for i was recommended a MISTUBISHI HIGHLEAD DIRECT DRIVE 1350 GC1998 MDZ but to be honest it looks nothing like i am used to. I want one that comes with its own table wher the spool winds on from teh side that you can sew with one or 2 needles. Where the bobbin is underneath the machine??
Hope you can help thanks
Yamata tends to be a good brand but I’m not familiar with this model … I don’t use domestic machinery so it’d be wrong for me to comment. I don’t believe the model you’ve mentioned is an overlocker as well, just a cover stitch …. so you’d still need an overlocker for seams and something to do bar tacks (securing straps etc). Swimwear really needs an over locker first and foremost (three or four thread with a blade) and something to top stitch with (zig zag or cover stitch).
Thanks Stuart! Would I need another machine in addition to the Yamata to do swimwear? or can a coverstitch machine do it from start to finish?
Hi Jax. That’s an apples and oranges question
…. Both may well be used for sewing swimwear and each has it’s own application. The Yamata is a pretty good cover stitch when you’re talking domestic machines! You really won’t use more than a straight bar tack or zig zag with a plain sewing machine (Brother is a good reliable Brand) so all the extra stitches may well be supperfluous if all you’re doing is swimwear … if you’re doing other things then it may well be a fantastic little toy!
Brother CS-8150 or Yamata Feiyue GK257 for sewing swimwear?
Hi Stuart, thanks for your reply about the seam problem. It took me awhile playing to get the tensions right so the seam didn’t pull open but it worked
Thanks again for your help.
Hi Bob. It’s very hard to get commercial results from domestic equipment. I guess it all depends on how much of a perfectionist you are and how much money you want to waste on a hobby … I’ve seen home sewists with some pretty serious machinery in my time, and they’ll tell you it’s the only way to get the results they want to achieve. Or as I say … it’s hard to cross the Pacific in a canoe … it’s been done many times, but there are better ways to do it! If you want to use a canoe, then try crossing the river instead
Hi Kirsty. Generally speaking on four thread overlockers the right hand needle is the locking stitch and the one most likely to break, however there are some machines in which the left thread loses all it’s stretch when the right thread is used. I only ever use three threads on an overlocker to make sure the seam stretches enough such that the likelihood of breakage is avoided. I would suggest trying the overlocker on some scrap with the left needle in only and then with both and comparing how far each style stretches before it breaks.
Four thread is stronger for non-stretch, but more likely to break in stretch because it doesn’t have as much give … Very important to note this difference!!!
Hi Stuart,
Thanks for the machine info. Am looking at recon. Kansai coverstitchers now – madness for just a hobby!
On the Wonder problem: I cannot get any finer twin needles than I already have but by shifting the needles to the left of the needle plate slot and taping over the gap on the right I have greatly reduced the amount the fabric gets pushed into the slot with almost acceptable results.
Hi Stuart, great site, thanks for adding this section. I am wondering if you can give me some advice with seaming? I am using a four thread overlock on a gym leotard (size 10 years) and the side seams seem to be always breaking on the LHS needle thread (after she’s worn it for class). I’ve tried loosing the tension but it leaves a gaping seam. The thread I am using is coats astra, could this be my problem? Would love any insight you can give, thank you
Hi Bob. Industrial machines use a single needle only in a straight stitch. The twin and triple needle industials are usually cover stitch machines (although overlockers can be two needles as well) which each have their own thread and tensioner. My cover stitch machine, for example, can use between 1 and 3 needles, each with it’s own spool of thread and its own tensioner, not to mention a seperate top looper and a seperate bottom looper.
Hi Stuart, Thanks for the needle advice; sounds exactly right. I’ve spent all day playing with an assortment of twin needles that arrived today. No luck though. It’s annoying that the 3mm and 4mm twins that I use always come with larger needle sizes (75 – 90); I tried a 2mm with size 60 needles but, because the needles are so close together, the fabric gets pushed right down the slot in the needle plate before the needles penetrate. The only way I got anywhere near success was to use some embroidery stabiliser to keep things under control – not a very practical or cost effective solution!
Even at the best of times things were not perfect. The upper thread tension is unbalanced between the two needles (my Janome only has one upper thread tensioner so I can’t balance it) and the stretching of the fabric into the needle plate causes “ridging” between the lines of stitches, even at low tensions. I think as far as Wonder is concerned it’s going to be a zigzag topstitch in the future – unless you have any more suggestions. (Sigh – zigzag looks so amateurish to me!)
Forgive my ignorance: Do professional machines use twin needles or two separate needles with individual tensioners? And interchangeable needle plates to reduce stretch on the downstroke perhaps?
Hi Bob. Microfiber stretch knits like Wonder have a very close knit (reduces transluceny, improves rebound etc) which require a fine guage needle. Industrial machines are generally finer because of their speed but domestics (especially twin needles) are probably too thick (not to mention the larger eye for easier threading). Getting a ball point will help with initial penetration but will not stop Wonder gripping the shank … ask your supplier for the smallest guage needle possible (ball point preferably but smallest first).
Stuart, My problem is with twin needle top stitching. Wonder really grips the needle scarf and stops the thread movement through the eye dead in its tracks. Almost total stitch dropping and instant thread twangling ensues. I’m not using stretch or ball point needles (I’ve never needed them previously but have got some on order. I was just really surprised at how tightly the weave grips the needle (on the down stroke a little volcano forms around the needle, on the up stroke the top of the volcano inverts and jams itself good and proper into the flute). Normally I can get round this problem with a larger needle size, very slow stitching and a bit of silicon spray if really necessary – but not this time. Also, as far as I can see with an eye glass, the needle isn’t actually cutting the weave so I’m not sure stretch / ball points will help me much. We shall see.
Hi Bob. What trouble are you having with the fabric? Can’t say I’ve experienced any difficulty with the JL textiles … superb feel to them, predictable handling with a good variety of performances.
Hi Stuart,
Just saying hi. Love the site, love the binder video. Love the fact I don’t have to visit Yahoo Groups anymore (they always make me like I’m in an asylum).
Me? I’m currently doing battle with topstitching JL Wonder. Sheesh! Lovely fabric but what an animal! Overlocking is a bit tetchy too.) I’ll be back with questions if I don’t find an answer next week.
Regards,
Bob
Stuart this is agreat site, well done. I am just starting out, I have a singer sewing machine that does straight stitches and a few zig zag types. I plan to make swimwear and active wear, all being stretch type styles. Can you give a list of the bare minimums I should have as far as machines? I plan on doing a lot of pieces with flatlock stitching not just on edges but everywhere. What’s a good machine for that (in the USA ).