Arguably the modern monokini is regarded as the sexiest swimsuit a woman could wear. It looks nothing like Rudi Gernreich’s 1964 monokini (see image below) which, while astoundingly controversial, was technically nothing more than a maillot cut off just below the bust with a couple of supporting straps. It was not something you were ever destined to see at the pool or beach. Unfortunately for Rudi Gernreich, too many people have used the word ‘monokini’ to describe something that wasn’t his intention. He had intended to ‘free’ the female breast in an age that forced breasts into unnatural shaped cups. While he was certainly responsible for the term ‘monokini’, he was not its original creator. Ancient Egyptian and Greek art shows women in water scenes wearing short cotton skirts that were waisted just below the bust and held up by the same two straps. It’s not a big jump to turn that skirt into shorts. There have also been a number of much earlier undergarments and tummy control devices that look identical in outward appearance. What he did was not create a new garment, but in my opinion, suggested wearing an old design as the total outfit to make a political statement … it’s up to you to decide whether you think he was successful at least in making any statement. Interestingly, Gernreich also credits himself with having invented the thong, something else that is shown in the art of many ancient societies and was at the time a current Japenese undergarment. Remember that back in the 50′s and 60′s, information and travel were ony for the elite classes so for many this would have been the first time they’d seen such garments. Traditionally the term monokini has since referred to a bikini bottom held in place by two straps which, at least partially, cover the breasts. I’ve been unable to find a photo of Rudi Gernreich’s monokini. Historically I believe the model, Peggy Moffit, had only agreed to model the extremely controversial garment if her husband photographed it. In the mean time you’ll have to make do with a sketch.
Much to the surprise of surfwear labels, monokini’s have a very limited market. Rather than try to design a monokini for your market, consider first if your market might purchase a monokini. The woman is typically 20-30 years of age, very slim, tall, has a full firm bust and wants to show as much of it off as possible. She is usually well off, very fashion conscious, and has a particular occasion in mind for wearing a special swimsuit (you’re more likely to see her at a champagne pool party than lying on the beach).
Many surfwear labels have tried to add the traditional monokini to their range in either the hope that teenage beach goers will buy them or the more fashion conscious buyers might be tempted to start wearing their label. I’m really not sure I understand their logic. This teenage demographic is more interested in a traditional bikini to fit in with their friends and get a tan, rather than having everyone stare at them (unless, of course, they’re involved in a swimsuit competition). The more fashion consious buyer seeks a far better quality and fit than surfwear generally offers. This is one of my designs from back in 2003. It really should not have a center strap holding each side in place to be considered a traditional monokini. This gives the garment stability, especially for larger busts, and makes the garment more acceptable in retail.
While not often considered, the other part to Gernreich’s monokini principle was simplicity. A garment should have minimal construction and detailing to ensure the body remains the focal point. Again if you consider the client, she is more likely to be wearing expensive jewelry at her pool party. Keep the garment construction simple (as few cut panels as possible), one colour and free of accessories.
The above photo illustrates the pattern we’re going to make. This pattern is based on the size 10B/C one piece block we created previously (using 12% horizontal negative ease and 0% vertical ease). Before you start each step, look carefully at the illustration for that step as it will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration. If it doesn’t go back to the start of that step and work your way through again.
Step One
Begin by drawing a vertical guide line through the bust point. I like to lengthen the appearance of the garment by lowering the leg line at the side seam about 2-3cm. Mark a guide 7cm each side of the bust point and 4.5cm each side of the guide line at the waist. The halter neck extends approximately 7cm beyond the shoulder line for a strap about 2cm wide. If you design a wider strap, you may need to lengthen it a little. Alternatively you could use a string tie instead of a halter strap. If so, create a guide line horizontal to the base of the front neck.
Step Two
Approximately draft in the new leg line by extending the side seam down to the guide. Draft in the halter neck symmetrically around the vertical guide. It should join the bust line at a right angle on both sides and be smooth and gradual. The red dotted line shows how to use the guide for a string tie. These lines are purely a matter of style. You can make them narrower or wider, higher or lower, whatever is your taste. The span of 14cm across the bust is about as narrow as you want to go for stability without a side tie string. With a side tie string you can go much narrower. Just think about what is tasteful to your market if you hope to sell the garment.
Step Three
Draft in the curves between the bust and the waist by joining between the guide lines. Again stay at right angles to the bust line and waist line. How low you want to take the curve at the center front is again a matter of style, but it must be above the highest point of leg line or you have broken the tension line running around the body. Try to stay at least 2cm above the leg line, the more the better and the less likely the garment will distort into rippling. Your curve should also not extend beyond a line between the bust point and center crotch (dotted blue line) or the bust will pull to center back where the tension is higher. The center back should not be lower than the leg line for the same reason as the center front.
Step Four
Trace the back panel and join it to the front at the side seam. The pattern can benefit from a little dart being taken out by rotating the back panel about 5° clockwise. Recurve the leg line smoothly. Draft in a curve to join the center back to the front panel staying as close to your guides as possible while still having a smooth gradual curve. I tend to create a new side seam at what seems a counter intuitive angle. From behind this seam better outlines the bottom and of course it’s much easier to line up in the machine room. The drawback is it doesn’t sit that well on the shelf.
Step Five
Remove unnecessary guidelines. Cut out or retrace the front and back Panels. Be sure to clearly label your pattern pieces with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I’ve shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm allowance for folding over 9mm elastic.
Hmmm I’m not sure in the UK but you might want to ask somewhere like http://www.thesewingforum.co.uk … that would be my first stop.
Hi
can you help I need to alter a monokini to fit
I have a georgous monokini that fits wonderfully everywhere but the bust so I need to alter it.
Where can I buy a cup insert for the monokini in a cup size of F in the uk?
regards
Eileen
Hi Lauren, I can’t email it as the computer generates it on the fly from the data you store in your cookie. You’ll need to let me know the steps you are following, and at what point something is going awry so I can advise you on how to sort out the problem … it’s usually a misunderstanding somewhere that’s easily fixed.
Hi there
Ive tried to upload the Lazy Peoples block for the monokini on 3 different computers and it simply wont work. I know its a real P in the A, but please would you consider emailing it to me?
You are right, mikki, that it should be a variation based on the size of the body it’s to be fitted to … in reality most companies will select a standard percentage amount that’s based more on the type of elastic that’s used (ie; the wider the elastic the less % reduction). You really need to experiment with your elastic to work out what feels the most comfortable for your product. The monokini does tend to require a little more tension on the vertical as it helps the garment stay positioned over the bust correctly.
Hi Stuart, what are the rules concerning elastic on a suit such as this?
if this suit was made with 12% and 0% vertical negative ease, and the front opening changes from horizontal at the base to vertical up to and around the neck?
is it 3% like around the leg openings or zero, or a mixture changing depending on the orientation?
thanks
Thank you
Lauren, the width is specified in step two and is somewhat arbitrary as it’s really a design choice. I don’t tend to go narrower than 14cm so it’ll sit nicely on the bust and friction locate properly … but that’s for a 10B/C. If you’re making for larger sizes you really should make it wider, but it’s still arbitrary. Posing suits, for example as worn by female body builders will be narrower, as will those used in bikini comps.
Of course. In step five, there is a line across where the bust should sit. I was wondering what that line should measure so I can tell the scale the pattern is made at.
Lauren, a point is a point without width so I think perhaps you might be asking a different question. Could you please explain in more detail so I can help. Thanks
how wide should the bust point be in the final illustration?
Hi Amanda,
I don’t take what you say as rude at all and I completely understand where you’re coming from and the difficulties you will face trying to buy swimwear. Also you are certainly not alone … my wife, for example, also falls fairly closely to you at 10DD … I make all of her swimwear as she can’t find swimwear off the shelf … finding off the shelf swimwear for you would be even harder.
You need to understand that the comments on this site are aimed at students of fashion … people who will end up designing ready-to-wear clothing for the mass market. I am obligated to not just teach them how to create patterns, but to place accurate perspective on the economics of manufacture.
While I know there are thousands and thousand of women with EE and greater bust sizes (what we call “Full Bust”) you need to recognise that commercially they make up less than 3% of the total market … if you then put those into size 8-12 (Australian sizing – I’m Australian) for the general market, you end up with less than 1%. Commercially speaking it is not worthwhile to manufacture a 10F when for every 10F you sell you could sell 44 size 10Bs (7.94%/0.18%). These sizes are usually left to either niche manufacturers or made to measure dress makers. In my own studio I used to stop at a D cup for ready to wear and then make every swimsuit with a DD or greater as custom made.
What you need to find is a dress maker in your area who can do made to measure swimwear. I’m absolutely positive you’ll get a better fit this way and you can tweak any custom detail into it that you want. If they’re not sure how to do the pattern then the techniques here will tell them how it’s done … free!
My comments in the second paragraph are aimed at the nature of this particular style … not one pieces or swimwear in general. The fact at the end of the day was that the traditional monokini was a complete failure in the surfwear market (teenies) but at the same time was the biggest seller in the high end swimwear fashion market (irrelevant of sizes).
What I must be very honest in saying out loud and publically is that just because you are part of a particular sizing group and feel strongly that it’s an empty niche that needs addressing, if you head on into manufacture without studying the market realities and demographics your business will fail. Large cup sizes in swimwear make up a very small percentage, they are a niche market and they are already catered for and extremely competitive (not to mention very low profit). They have all tried exotic styles beyond the simple one piece styles and underwired styles and they have mostly failed. There is a brilliant article on Fashion Incubator about 3 Stupid Reasons To Start A Clothing Line
Ask yourself, why is it that there is a lack of exotic styles in these cup sizes? Could it be that business entrepeneurs just don’t want to make money or that these styles don’t sell in economically viable quantities in the boutique retail market? They do sell much better via Internet retail such as Bella Forma who I can personally vouch for as superb and highly qualified full bust specialists who you can trust to help you find the best styles for you (and no they aren’t paying me to say that … it’s my personal experience).
Hope this responds to your concerns.
i’m sorry if i come across rude but i’m not at all 100% happy with the comment in your 2nd paragraph about the monokini. Alot of women buy them to hide certain parts and flatter others for my self hiding my stomach and showing bust after having a child and getting stretch marks i don’t want to wear a bikini and still want to feel young and sexy so don’t want to wear a full piece, however after much struggle and let down have not been able to find 1 i like that offers support to by size 12-14 G-H bust i’m pregnant at the moment,so my normal size is only a 10 F and i have breast fed so my bust isn’t firm any more i’m not rich nor even close to comfortable in the money stakes but that shouldn’t stop sum1 from making something for me to wear, i have designs i know will wrk for me and many other women in my situation though i’m not very good at getting my ideas on paper as i’m not a great drawer i wish i could sew that way atleast i could make a difference no matter how small for women in my position it upsets me deeply to know we are not thought of as worth it cos u only want to cater for the very few women out there that have the so called perfect body while women like me are left to suffer i’m sure if u created a decent priced range of swim suits in the monokini range and advertised them for women like me you would be surprised just how much you’d sell again i’m sorry if i have ranted to much or come across in any other way but annoyed with the lack of interest n the heartbreak i have to go thru just to find swimwear for myself i hope you can just understand my aloneness in the search n my annoyance in the lack of light at the end of the tunnel