The halter top may not be the smallest bikini top, but in my opinion is aesthetically superior to other styles of top. It visually enhances the size and shape of the bust. It can provide not just support but also lift and centering for the bust. It can be used with or without a preformed cup. Generally speaking, I do not recommend using gathering instead of a dart for cup sizes over 10C unless you are also using a preformed cup. Without the preformed cup the bust drops into the gathered area.
The photo below illustrates the pattern we’re going to make. The halter top below does not have a preformed cup and is adequately supporting a 10DD bust. Our pattern will start out for a size 10B/C and then show the extra steps to make it suitable for a size 10D/DD. Before you start each step, look carefully at the illustration for that step as it will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration. If it doesn’t go back to the start of that step and work your way through again.
Step One
Place the triangle bikini top over the bust point of your traced one piece block. Draft in a strap centered on a vertical line extending from the bust point to 6cm beyond the shoulder.
Step Two
Draft in the neckline. This line should be a smooth, gradual curve from the tip of the strap to the maximum convex on the triangle. Don’t be tempted to start your curve half way along the strap or you may need to shorten the strap a little more making the garment firmer and both less likely to stay in place and also limiting the fitting range within each size. Extend the base line of the triangle about 7cm to the side. This arbitrary amount will determine how much the halter will wrap the body.
Step Three
Draft in the outer line of the halter. This line should again be a smooth, gradual curve from the tip of the strap to the tip of the extended line. The curve should be about 1-1.5cm inside the armhole to prevent it gathering under the arm. You could stop at this point, add seam allowance and you’d have a halter suitable for a size 10B/C.
Step Four
As we’re creating a halter top for a 10D-DD cup we need to take a couple more steps. Create two guide lines, each extending from the bust point out to the maximum convex of the triangle or thereabouts.
Step Five
Trace and separate the panels. Extend the center strap guide 1cm below the bust point and then 1cm to the left and 1cm to the right. Place the panels as illustrated.
Step Six
Recurve the halter. Note that the bust point has not been moved, but you do still need to pull the dart back 1cm and extend the bottom of the dart a fraction to maintain the right angles either side of the dart seam.
Step Seven
Retrace the panel. Be sure to clearly label your pattern with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I’ve shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm for fold over elastics. The lower edge is designed to use bound elastic and as such does not require seam allowance.
Hi, in step six to make a D/DD you point out that the bust point has not been moved but you must drop the point of the dart – do you drop the point a further 1cm below where you have already lowered the two side sections? Because I made this as illustrated and got a really long dart that ended up at the bust point, but when I made it 2cm below the bust point (and 1cm below the lowered sections) the fit was better?
Thank you! This is perfect… I have been wanting to make a bikini and this is just what I wanted. And, you even included how to size it up for a larger bust! <3!
Curtis, the whole process of designing patterns for wovens and stretch is completely different and just turning the woven on the bias won’t do as you expect. You need a text on making patterns for wovens to do this.
I am a total beginner to sewing, but have read and learned a ton in the last few months. Thanks for the fantastic info here! I want to make a Ren Fest gypsy costume for my wife, including a halter top that ties in back and behind the neck. I came across some great boucle fabric (Mood #FW12061C) that I can dye, but it is woven instead of knit. Would it work to construct a one piece block and triangle bikini top with 0% or a little negative ease and then cut the fabric on the bias? I imagine the chest band under the breast pieces would still be done with the grain. Your thoughts? Thanks again!
Hi Setara. The pattern has no seam allowance of any kind built in and nor does it make allowance for any specific type of closure … the end of the strap is precisely center back neck. If you want to insert a 4cm wide clip, for example, then you’ll need to take 2cm off the strap before adding any fold back allowance … I can’t possibly know what selection of clips you have access to … nor are clips always necessary for this garment.
Hi Stuart,
Is the strap on this pattern measured for a clip closure at CB neck? Or is it just an arbitrary length that we then add an additional strap extension to?
Thanks again,
Setara
Hi Gemma … yes you need to have completed the block listed … in this case the one piece block … seems odd but pretty much everything on this site is based on the one piece block method
Place the triangle bikini top over the bust point of your traced one piece block. Draft in a strap centered on a vertical line extending from the bust point to 6cm beyond the shoulder???? i was confused from step 1?? do i need a pattern from another page on this fab website before i start this one?? help me!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank-you for this wonderful tutorial! I have been searching everywhere to try and figure out how to make a pattern for a halter top that I can tweak to my measurements and you have the exact one that I need. Wonderful resource to have.