This website started out it’s life as a site dedicated to designing swimwear and making stretch patterns (version 1 – 2005). After running out of space on my original webserver I moved it to it’s own domain name and expanded it’s scope (version 2 – 2007). Since then I’ve translated it further to a wordpress blog so people can interact, ask questions or submit their own advice for others (version 3 – 2009). My original intention was for the swimwear site to be a stretch-fit pattern making reference for fashion students because there was a distinct lack of text books on this topic. Eventually I will sit down and write the book but in the mean time you may use this site as a reference.
While the site’s main emphasis is still on stretch-fit pattern making, the scope has expanded to include dancewear methods, limited bra theory and some miscellaneous stretch topics. The scope will, however, be limited to pattern making. I will try not cover sewing or construction of the patterns illustrated as the website’s scope is about ready-to-wear pattern making for fashion students who should already have access to experienced machining instructors.
If home sewists have questions about sewing stretch fabrics then by all means ask them on one of the Sewing Swim & Dancewear pages (menu top right) … I’ll try to check up on it, but others may be able to help you as well!
While common non-stretch pattern making is reasonably well documented, designing for stretch has long been, and still is, a very secretive art. With a distinct lack of technical understanding of the principles, designers and pattern makers have used little more than trial an error to produce a pattern. They might have started with a very generalised ‘block’ given to them at school or have purchased an existing commerial pattern and tried to work backwards. No one could tell them how these blocks and patterns were made … just that they work and a few basics on how, but not why, they should be graded or modified.
Because there is such a poor understanding of the principles, designers have guarded what little they had achieved like it was gold. There was never time or money for the average company to research the principles and the fabrics were changing so quickly that it was almost impossible to develop any standard process. Indeed most designers who claim to understand stretch fabrics base their claim on having enough experience to be able to predict what will work and what won’t. Some very extraordinary and successful designs have been produced by trial and error.
Making patterns for stretch is not something you really want to tackle if you have limited non-stretch pattern making and sewing experience. A good grounding in basic patterns and sewing, while not absolutely essential, will not only make things easier to problem solve but will make the process so much more fun.
I demonstrate using the flat pattern technique. That is to say, I show people how to draft patterns from a series of measurements on a flat sheet of paper or computer CAD program (which then prints out a sheet of paper). I believe this is the only way to acurately and repeatably make patterns for stretch fabrics. Some people utilise what is called ‘draping’, a method in which you wrap a body or dress making dummy in fabric and manipulate that fabric to how you want the garment to look before marking the fabric for tracing and cutting out. Both systems work for non-stretch fabrics, draping does not work sucessfully for stretch fabrics. I believe the flat pattern technique works significantly better for both types of fabric.
Don’t get me wrong, good old fashioned sticky tape and paper is a great traditional method for taking a 3D form off the body before turning it into a flat pattern. I’ve used it for years to help demonstrate to students how the body changes from one person to the next, especially with making bras. It’s a lot of fun and a great way to introduce students to pattern making. But most importantly, you must realise that fabric and paper sit very differently on the body. Using paper to create a draped pattern, especially in bra making, is not going to produce the same pattern as if you’d used the appropriate fabric.
If you have no experience in working with patterns I suggest first visiting your local library or bookseller and searching for one of the titles in my reading list. Perhaps try making a few patterns from my non-stretch clothing section. It’s much easier to get a good grounding in these techniques before you add the complications that stretch factors or specialty fits bring to the cutting table.
Many people will tell you that stretch fabrics are more forgiving and much easier because you don’t have to worry about a few millimeters here or there. True and not true. Certainly you can make something that will vaguely fit, but to make something that fits well means understanding why you are doing what you are.
Sewing stretch fabrics also takes some practice to get right. Most people find it quite daunting at first but with a little practice it isn’t really any harder than other fabrics. You just need to get the hang of how the fabric behaves in each of your machines. Don’t expect perfect results, even tensions and straight seams the first time. Stick with it and a whole new exciting world of sewing will open up for you. Although this text is about pattern making, I’ll add hints and tips here and there to help you through some of the sewing difficulties.
OK, so if all this hasn’t scared you off then we’re ready to start. I strongly recommend starting at the beginning and working your way through this site in order. There is an enormous amount of important technical information in the beginning pages that you really must read before jumping straight to the patterns. Read it thoroughly and you will not have trouble understanding my techniques. Read it twice if you have to.
If you haven’t noticed, I’m big on preparation. That holds true for when you come to making the patterns later. Make sure you have decent sized sample of fabric to play with and a good sewing machine and overlocker (serger for our American friends). A cover stitch machine is very useful but not essential. Clear away a nice big table for working on, and, if you’re doing this from home, do it when the children are at school (they will always find your needles, pins and scissors more exciting than nice soft fabric).
I had thought to provide an introduction to stretch fashion in an historical context, but I’m almost certain you’ve all seen enough old movies to see how items like swimwear have changed with fashion over the years. If not, there are numerous websites that can help. About the only precaution I’d mention is that mainstream media provides a more high fashion weighted impression than what is really happening in popular culture. For example, you’ll see more footage of beautiful girls in the tiniest of bikinis and brazilians on the TV than you ever will at your local beach. This is important because it’s easy to imagine the market for high fashion clothing is larger than it really is. Jeans, t-shirts and surfwear brands sell more clothing than high fashion ever will. I’m not saying I like supermarket clothing better, I’m saying don’t over estimate howmany people are interested in or can afford high end garments. It is and has always been a niche market.
So how are fashion trends started. For much of history the fashion industry itself has controlled the overall direction of fashion. Certain style trends are established each year by industry groups so as to control the fabric colours and accessories manufactured. To the uninitiated this process can seem like cloak and dagger stuff, but really its more to do with economics and practicality. Of course we lap up these trends without even realising it. If big surfwear brand X shows a cute teenage girl saying it’s fasionable then it must be. Oh how strong our desire to be the only one to have the latest style … just like all our friends.
The public’s greater access to mainstream media has, however, significantly lowered the industry’s ability to control fashion trends. Smaller, independant designers can create whatever they desire and gain equal access to the market on media like the internet. This has resulted in the public exercising more control over where their money is spent. Literally, if the public likes a design then the designer will do well and the rest of the industry will reinterpret the design in order to steal back a market share (marketing is more important than originality). The moral then, is listen to your market rather than tell it what to believe. Also remember that creative ideals do not always equte to successful business.
This site will demonstrate how to make patterns for a number of designs; some old fashioned, some current, some way out there on the edge of acceptance. My task is to show you how to convert your designs, whatever they might be, to functional patterns.
This site will work from technical or trade sketches rather than fashion illustrations as that’s predominantly what you’ll be presented with as a pattern maker. Fashion illustrations, while pretty and representative of the designers concept, do not communicate construction method or any sense of accurate proportion. In reverse, pattern makers, sample makers and machinists will not generally work with illustrations so as a designer you should either convert your illustrations to trade sketches when dealing with other industry members or do what most designers do and design your garments directly as trade sketches, rather than illustrations at all. Designers hate this with a passion but eventually come round to reality.
A trade sketch is a proportional drawing of the human body showing exactly where each design line and seam is located. It may even be a series of drawings and close ups. When sent to another industry member it would normally be accompanied by a written description of outer fabrics and linings, each type of seam, thread weights and type, construction method, and any other information that is necessary to make a sample garment. Sometimes you may even be provided with samples of fabrics or print artwork.
I use the template below for my trade sketches. I even use it to work out new designs and concepts. As I generally only design samples for swimwear and underwear, my sketches don’t need arms and legs, just a few regular guide lines to make sketching easier. You may need to add arms and legs to yours if you want to do other areas of fashion.
3D Front: Corel Draw 12 – Adobe Illustrator – AutoCAD
3D Back: Corel Draw 12 – Adobe Illustrator – AutoCAD
If you get stuck, don’t feel afraid to send me an email asking for advice. I’m happy to help, but please make sure you’ve read everything first because it may take a few days before I get to my email.
Hi Stuart
What a beautiful, useful and generous website !!!
Thank you so much for sharing this information with all the required details.
Thanks
Hi Stuart:
I am not a “sewist” although my mother was a “seamstress”, so genetically, I might get eventually proficient with my $25 garage-sale Singer portable, a very cute piece of engineering. I found your website while looking for ideas on how to modify or enhance a bra for my wife. I am interested in making a bullet bra (in various cup sizes) from a standard full-support (“old ladies”) style, maybe a Triumph Doreen or similar. Growing up in the 50s I got to “appreciate” the look, especially in the Maidenform ads. All the new bras look like storage containers for baseball manufacturers.
With some engineering background, mainly technical photography and instrumentation in research and development labs, and a compulsive lifestyle of analyzing anything I come across, your tables are fascinating. The study of cup sizes vs. band size comes to mind, and I finally plotted the data on a rough graph, attached.
It very plainly shows the bump in the curves you pointed out, but in graph form is very much more easily understood. I suspect most pattern makers have not had much math, but due to my failure to finish electrical engineering and get a degree, I am again studying university-level math ( I collected about 10 texts on advanced calculus, plus other related topics) as a way to compensate.
If you had any inkling to add the graph to your website, I could re-draw it more professionally.
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BTW, “spherical aberration” is not the cause of the distortion in photos, it only drastically spoils the contrast of the image. The bowing in-and-out of the edges of the image is due to “barrel” or “pincushion” distortion. This is confusing, as both barrels and typical pincushions have a rounded-out aspect. Focus only on the word “barrel”, this is the abberation where the image it bowed outward at the edges.
This can be eliminated by using a lens that is exactly symmetrical internally, commercial photo labs doing document publishing need this installed in their “process cameras” which are the huge cast-iron monsters that take up two rooms, one for the easel and lighting, one for film and processing lab.
Ordinary camers lenses are almost never symmetrical, except for my favorite lens, the 150 mm Schneider-Kreutznach Symmar f/5.6 on my 4×5 Linhof camera. It is a compromise offered to claim the versatility of focusing very close for table-top work, but in realilty, we lose a lot of sharpness anyway. I should have used an ordinary enlarging lens for all my table-top stuff. It is designed especially for close-up, an intended magnification ratio of 4:1 or 10:1 is common. Forget landscapes.
We pick our lenses like women pick bras. Tast-specific.
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I have tried to figger out how to take my wife’s boobs of 700 ml and 770 ml (mesaured by immersion method) and try to make enhancers to achieve any theoretical cup size, just for ideas.
I found data from the Rose breast form company that acutally lists weights of each form. If we assume a saline fill, the volume in ml is exactly equal to the weight in grams (forget the NaCl content). Or, if we take the data on silicone implants, the density is lower, perhaps by 10$ or more, depending oh how heavy the maker, or client desires. The volume can be corrected accordingly.
I plotted this (on another graph!) showing volume vs. industry form sizes, and the smaller ones are in apparently 50 ml increments, the larger ones in about 80 ml increments. The linear curves intersect at about at the form size # 8 point, size 9 being well off the lower curve.
This should allow designing inserts to allow a fit of any cup size to any breast. Heaven is nearby.
All I need now is to calculate how much larger to buy a cup size to allow for the loss of volume when the cups are cut down to allow the new straight edges of the pattern.
I then plotted the dimensions of commercially made underwires to determine the theoretical volumes of breasts, contained in standard bras, now assuming a perfectly hemi-spherical boob as the modern norm. NOTE: NO spherical aberration is tolerated in this! Absolute perfection only, for analytical purposes.
The volumes of conical-shaped boobs can be calculated, our friends at Figleaves gave me the idea, use a cone to exactly measure client’s boob sizes. I cut a paper circle gauge, calibrated the circumference for the actual as-rolled circumference, thus the diameter, and ensuing height of cone, using Excel. This allows volume to be directly determined, (neglecting the Kleenex-space at the tip) all automatically, just secect a proposed gauge diameter from 8.5 inches up to abvout 12 inches.
I tried to ask some questions about this breast-calibration scheme, but neither Figleaves nor the engineering firm resonded. I think the system was not implemented, perhaps women are not inclined to fool around with anything more complicated than a tape measure. Sad, heaven is actually receding, like the universe.
I did make my own cup-calibration fixture, a thin sheet of ABS plastic, rolled into a cylinder, adjustable for torso circumference, and an internal brace to widen the thing to simulate human chest shape. An MRI shows a ratio of about 1.48:1, although it might be less.
I installed a large (2000 ml) latex rubber balloon with a plastic tubing attachment, to fill with water and drain into a 1000 ml graduated cylinder, which I also custom-made and calibrated.
I want to measure the actual of as-manufactured bras, to see if they conform to the rules of cup sizes. I got one sales lady to agree to let me buy a bunch, and return the next day, assuming eventually buying something.
I first selected Bali, the “Flower” model, as an example of a classic design, availble in a good range of sizes. I later found a Fantasie Elila jacquard bra which would allow easier sewing, I think the pattern would more easily hide my sewing. Or, a Fancy Free, it already has a nice shape.
It would be good to know which bullet-bra makers have designed a decent radius at the point, the apparently lethal tips of some look too inhuman for social wear.
How do the bra sewists finish the sewing of these tips? Seems like a difficult skill.
or can you recommend an interactive on-line pattern class? can you offer one? I am sure many would be willing to pay for your expertise. You are brillient(not just about pattern making, but how theoretical, practical, and ability to teach. Knowing and teaching is 2 diff skill sets and so i must ask- Would u consider it?
You can do via groupon(if u want wider audience), or facebook? or your current members?
One more thing-(sorry-),
on your site, you mentioned there’s a place to get my body scanned in 3D. I know it’s expensive… but do you think that will help in aiding me to draft my own patterns?
Hi Stuart, thanks so much for providing such a great info, free for public use.
I didn’t read the first page when I started this website(not to worry- i didn’t jump to “lazy” people section either. I spent good 3-4 days… reading through your site.
I am in the industry of pattern making nor fashion industry for that matter(a home sewer… “wanna be”..). Reading through your blog, I could tell you sort of have a personality type “A” … a perfectionist(?:)- one of the reason for me to stick with reading through your “info Overload(necessary info, that is)” website. It probably is harder b/c I just barely got done through understanding/ drafting “fitted slopers” patterns for non stretch materials.
I used to work in finance- and as such, i was able to afford high-end” stuff(Gucci, Prada, A. Ferrato(?), LV)… and even their clothing, I had to get them to tailor to my body(everything- even non stretchy to stretchy(well, some stretchy high ends, if lucky, it fitted as is). I had my own custom tailor/pattern maker for my suits after sometime- especially when i lived in UK(My work was in Canary whalf(?) but i’d travel down to chelsea area to get my suits and other “non- business apperals”). Even then, I never got perfect fit- just like you mentioned, he’d used the same “custom made” bodice of mine each time- yet because of my odd figure proportions(and my rigid standard of fitting perfectly), I’d always have to pick out fabrics with some lycra in even suits. So butting to the point, due to personal medical reasons, I am not able to work in the IB sector- hence cannot afford such luxury(not so bad I think- after all, it made me open my eyes upto other thing:).
And as such, I am trying to make my own clothes- and alterations(well, if I can get it to fit, hopefully latter won’t be necessary?)
Oh b/f I go on, my main question is would you recommend me to buy one of those “pattern drafting softwares”? Yes, for home sewer, perhaps $250-300 is a bit of money but when i account for “buying” patterns, and have to alter/grade the pattern SOOO much, it’s taken away the “fun” out of sewing/ garment construction… To a point that I get so stressed. I have few good machines(I am a novice beginner sewer, so I let the technology aid me to make up for the difference. I have 8thread overlock serger(babylock- i think it’s really made by subsidiary of Toyota corp)? It also has cover/chain stitch. I seem to have no problem getting to sew even the most “stretchy stuff”…
Problem is… PATTERN!!!
I’ve checked out and followed every instructions from “patternmaking.com” to draft my slopers… and it’s a no go-
Honestly, for me, spandex, lycra material(such as body tubes from Victoria secrets) fits me perfectly(it’s the tube with 20-30% lycra). I used to buy it in blk and wear it as dress, out to dinner at soho(I am in Mahattan Ny now). Their swimwear doesn’t fit me. Even the high end Le’parlie lingerie camisole and bras doesn’t fit me- trial and error…
Sorry- i think i am venting- I’ve spent last months stuck to my computer and paper and sewing machine… and getting now where.
I took precise measurements listed on your site(I wish they had standard/ systematic “name and points for all pattern makings). Not too impt. Anyway, SO after having done that, I entered “lazy” people link- to see what it may look like. I understand it requires some tweaking… but even when enetering my measurements( I took your list of RTW table, imported to my excel, entered mine for every single one).
Following instructions (i..e taking in breath and hold…) and repeated 3 times for all of them. Here’s the problem. Some of your measurements you ask for, at “lazy” section, some are my size and some are non- existent for my size- I had to just pick the smallest avail for your drop menu. Your smallest size are even 3-4 sizes(ratio) larger, while other measuremnts I fall around the smallest size you listed on your RTW table.
I hope my email stays private- but yes, I had breast augumentation. Not so huge- just cup C.
Problem is, I have super small under bust measurement. I am not small boned- like my ankle and wrist- is same as Size 8(the smallest RTW size in your RTW table). I would think that’d make my shoulder to fit under that part but your output pattern of body suit doesn’t match the sleeve area(it shows a bit too much of side breast^^;;).
Your pattern still, is one of the cloest one to fit me(even as regualr “fitted” t-shirt”).
I do tend to wear very fitted b/c I am short- 164cm height with waist of 23(that with taking in full breath to expand my waist. if i let it out 1/2 of breath and hold, it falls to 22inches. I have pretty curved hip(mainly due to my hip bone structure) but I have no meat around them. my body fat % is 7% ( I don’t know if that matters- just to give you and idea. SO, being short with SIze C, and bra size(RTW being slight smaller than 32C)…My arm is toned… but have no fat around armpit…etc). As for buttocks…( I resort to “But Pads”:) ~boy I hope my identity remains private). With 1.5 inch “silicone butt padding, My hip is 33 inches.
If you’ve made it this far in reading, can you please recommend what I should do? I’d like to follow your website and learn from here- b/c i think it suits me more- I wear Stretchy(usually more than 5 to 8%) in even regualr aprreals, not b/c it’s “forgiving)- for me, I still have to put in darts for most “fitted patterns designed for knits).
1. can you recommend a pattern drafting program? I odn’t know zilt about graphic softwares… I have photoshop CS with imageready- and i never used it. Most of pattern making softwares(I tried Garment designer for mac- the full version- my friend had a friend at FIT, so i tried it. It kept saying my portions will be distored- with my measurments entered.
I am not good or familiar with any CAD programs( I have worked with 3d- program bkin college- forgot all).
But I can’t help but to think that if you can code(i.e. software developer’s point of view- which i am novice- I only used STATA for statistics and Economic models). a program to render 3D- it must be easy to do 2D. It’s a reverse process( input 3d data and re-iterate the method in 2D formula( I don’ remember the coding part) but I clearly see a math relatonship. vector is 3D plane(on XYZ axis so, step before that is 2D on XY). I know the math behind vectors(form 4 yrs of calculus) but GOD I am so bad at learning the graphic softwares(i.e. using them)…
As I tried on paper for 2d methd using your instruction on mearuements and from regular “non stretchy fitted bodice, i see a distinct pattern… but all books n web resources gives you draw a point A here, and connect to point B, using your mearuement… etc.) Even for pattern grading- if you are grading with of a certain pint, shit the pivot(i.e. if grading takes shift on x axis, plot that point and piviot; if length wise, it’s a shift along y axis). find dart by crossing two diagnal lines, and at it’s intersection…seem to correspond to certain to front full width … and also passive correlation to shoulder line…
Can you recommend a book that explains the practical pattern drafting but also primary “theory” of pattrn drafting?(mathmathical reltions?).(not the golden ratio- since it doesn’t lend it self to customizable formula..- or does it?)
Anyway, I have spent $200+ on buying sew knits patterns, knits patterns, swimwear patterns in last 3 weeks- not a single one where I didn’t have to spend HOURS grading- even using the piviot method. You ar eby FAR, the most theoretical and practical teacher i’ve come across, but due to limitation of my ability to fine tune your patterns( based on my measuremnt- 1. due to some sizes are none existent for me to enter as an option, 2. my limited and stupid graphical software know how).
I’d be willing to spend upto $250-300(?) for a decent software and invest time to learn it, if ther’s some solid “foundation/theory” I can learn and incorporate as well.
I do have a vision condition/illness which limits my amount of time spent on computer(and I am just not that good with graphic softwares), so pretty user friendly software would be appreciated.
WOw i wrote a novel! sorry- I’ve spent countless hours and months and money(but most importantly- stress and time) and i have no one to turn to.
It’s just that I feel that 1 VERY WELL FITTED garment of, say, $2000USD is much better than 10 -20 pieces of semi- ok and semi-fitted dresses. I used to spend $100 bucks on a dress, and spend $100 bucks to get the whole thing altered:(
I didn’t used to shop high end deginer wear just b/c I wanted the “label” on my back- it was the fit!! (well, plus the tailored lines and fabric).
I don’t know why it’s so difficult- when I lived in Hong kong and Japan and Korea, RTW was semi acceptable at reasonable price(with alteration- which they always offer it for free:).
Thanks- and if you’d finsihed reading this email and respond back with some concrete advice…. i’ll send all my friends to your line-(they still work in Wall St- the get everything tailored:)- even Valentino suits!. J/k but PLEASE HELP ME- This was supposed to help with my current medical treatment(Dr said pick up a hobby to manage my pain/ stress ).. and now, I am even staringing my health even more! I feel like i am on a merry go round. \I try A method from book A, B method from cource B, online class( due to my current health- i can’t attend regular real classes), tried the commercial pattens, tried grading(when grading, why do they say divide by 4? If I am adjusting because my bust is too large, adding additional inches evenly to the back- leaves the back waist and bk arm hole to be too large)?
Anyway, PLEASE HELP ME! I’d be willing to pay for your service, if necessary?
PS. I can’t no longer download your “lazy” people pattern-I wanted to take it and print it out. Also, if i put horizontal ease to 0 and vertical ease to zero, will this give me a basic sloper(without arm sleeve)?
Hi Stewart. LOVE your site and all the info you provide. Thank you! I’m new to sewing and was experimenting with your one piece leotard block. I have a question that may seem silly, but if I want to alter the neckline/strap area do you have some tips for me as to what to keep in mind when narrowing strap/deepening neckline? I am experiencing some trouble when changing it as per my example attached (I added a file with a snapshot of it – the desired changes in red). The straps and armpits didn’t fit right afterwards
Thank you!
Hi Stuart would just like to say a big thank you for the information and help I have found on your site, I have never made a catsuit before but with the help I found on here it worked perfect once again thank you very much.
Tracey
Jody, I’m not sure why you cant read the blog section but you can see the pages like this … that’s a whole ne one to me. Do you see the side bar boxes on the left hand side and then nothing to the right … or do you see something to the right when you go to http://www.patternschool.com/?
Mr. Anderson; I have recently joined your site, and have registered, however I am having trouble getting to the “blog” or forum/discussion. Is there a specific way in?.
jlsalahub@sympatico.ca
Hi Gus, I really can’t say. I’d think it would be possible to some degree but there are a few catches like the curve introduced to the image by the camera lens (spherical abberation) and things further away looking smaller. I’d guess with enough square on photos and enough overlap between photos you could get close enough to create such a cover … I have heard of similar things being done so it could be done.
I’d be looking to talk to the boat builders and get a 3D hull model off them for a small fee … tell them exactly what you are trying to do and they might be ok with it.
I’d like to ask a generic, yet specialized, pattern making question that doesn’t apply to clothing per se. I’m not sure if I ask it here or elsewhere, but here goes:
- Purpose: I’m trying to make boat mooring covers.
- Methodology Question: Can I take digital camera pictures with a measuring device (eg. yardstick) in the picture and download them into a software pkg to 1.) produce a scale 3d image then 2.) produce a pattern to make the boat cover?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,
Gus
Hi David, no there isn’t a charge for this site … it’s simply an online resource for fashion students wanting some basic groundwork on stretch fit pattern making (I don’t really cover sewing, manufacturing, retail, etc. … just pattern making). There are a couple of pages on mens’ swimwear but I lack the experience in mens’ wear to provide any more pattern making detail for men … my experience is in womens’ swim and dancewear. As for etiquette I’m sure your tailoring experience far exceeds mine when it comes to measuring! I tend to take the discreet approach and avoid measuring where I don’t need to … or estimate by using comparisons where possible (eg; measuring another site that appears equivalent in size).
Stuart, is there a charge for this service or can anyone use the site and ask questions? I am a tailor but am limited as to my ability because of hand surgery. I do not make ladies wear unless it is an absolute necessity as their requirements are more different than for men. If requested to make garments for men such as underwear and swimsuits ( and I have been) what is the process of taking measurements and maintaining a professional approach? Thanks.
Thanks for replying. I could have saved myself a lot of “hair-pulling” if I had known of your site before I started. Briefly in the UK a lot of triathlon wear is predominately male, female tends to be Unisex.My daughter and two other females decided they could do better. This is where I came in.Until then I had no previous experience of drafting for stretch fabric. Considerations: female specific shape, flattering, practical. Seaming became an issue. NO inside leg seam a priority, no seams across bustline, ease of getting garment on/off. These were just a few of the problems. Next finding a UK manufacturer who could handle stretch fabrics as most garments tend to be made in Asia. Overlocked seams used as opposed to coverlock(manufacturing decision). Optional chamois (the padding in crotch area)can be difficult to insert depending on type used. For Ironman distances (2.5 miles swim, 112 miles cycle and 26 miles run)I am told you definitely need something (never done triathlon myself). If you want to see the results you can access the website http://www.go-spin.co.uk (Not intended as a plug so feel free to omit this info). I would gladly share pattern “secrets” but I don’t think I’m allowed. So when does someone’s idea become a design and then a pattern and who owns it? Very grey area and so well covered by you (can’t remember where – it’s an age thing). I’m still trying to get my head round negative ease! Just in case I haven’t mentioned it before, BRILLIANT site. Wish you had been around when I had aspirations of being a fashion designer when I was at school back in …. now that would be telling.
Hi Lorraine. I don’t know too much about triathlon or sewing for it. I’m assuming it has much the same requirements as cycling with all the padding and non-chaffing stitching on the outside etc. Could you outline what are the significant design points that need to be considered and how you’ve gone about creating them so far?
I am a senior citizen and back in 80′s did a part time Fashion Design course using Winifred Aldrich 2nd ed. A while ago I was asked to help with patterns for female specific sportswear – triathlon/cycling. I purchased 5th ed. W.Aldrich (recommended) & proceeded to make stretch bodice and leggings blocks. Trial and error is an understatement but I got there. Then my daughter found your site! IF ONLY – it is now a constant source of reference and of course you do keep updating. The patterns I drafted are for a small business enterprise so we have sourced fabrics direct from Carvico in Italy. No known supplier in UK of compression/quick drying stretch fabric. I agree, Carvico are brilliant and have fabrics for many sports functions. Will you ever do “triathlon” patterns? It seems major manufacturers are keen to keep their monopoly in this area.
Hi Tiffany. If the fabric and lining you have purchased perfom exactly the same then there is no reason why you can’t trace a pattern off the original garment once any elastic has been removed and you’ve accounted for any wear from age/loss of elasticity.
Great website! In the future I would love to see a pattern for gloves – it would be great to make my own “prom” gloves in my size.
Hello there,
First of all, thank you so much for your site, it’s a GREAT resource. Secondly, I have a quick question about copying designs. I have a bikini that fits me perfectly, but I’d like to make some minor changes to it and make it up in a different print. If I just lay out the suit and copy the pattern on paper, make my small design changes, do you think it will fit the same? Do I have to worry too much about any other shrinkage or anything, providing the two lycras are of similar stretch?
Thanks for your help.
Tiffany
Stuart,
You have given so much information here. I am a nurse looking for a change of pace and always looking for a way to earn a meager living being creative. I love sewing and I dabble in design of all clothing, I can change up patterns for swimwear. I want to learn to make bras, well fitting quality bras. The information here has led me to believe I can not only make my own bra pattern designs but I will be able to teach Bra making as well. Thank you for all the information. This site has been invaluable.
I would like to pass on some information you may or may not want. I know of a book making program that will allow you to put your stuff through by the internet and put it into a formal book using cut and paste and downloading of pictures. The books can be printed to your specific order amount for a fair price and you could make them available to others through this site. Something to think about since this is really well done and valuable information. The site is called BookSmart by blub. You can download their program and use it to put your book together. I haven’t actually ordered a book I am working on. I would try a smaller version to test the site. Something to think about anyway.
Thanks again. Jeannette
Hi Leonard. The system creates some pretty bizarre passwords which are case sensitive and often take a few minutes before they go active. But once you are logged in there there should be a menu on the left hand side with a link to your profile … way down at the bottom of that you can type in a new password that’s easier for you to remember … but make it not so easy that it can be hijacked. If you can’t find the place then email me the password you want and I’ll change it for you.
The avatars I use are the universal Gravatar ones so they can follow you across any blog without having to upload/change it everytime. If you visit http://www.gravatar.com you can upload your pic along with an email address and whenever you use that email adress on other blogs with gravatar then you’ll find your avatar appears automatically … gives you way better control over the ownership and use of your images
Stuart: I’m sorry to bother you about these administrative issues (instead of discussing real topics), but I had trouble logging on, tried getting a new password, which still kept me from logging on, then I found I was logged on at some point, and now I can’t find where to change my (system assigned) password. I was going to try to test the html tag to have a picture in a comment, and that’s where the logging on issue started. Where do I change my password to something coherent? And can I set an avatar for my picture in comments?
Hi Randi, crochet is something I really don’t know too much about I’m afraid. I’d be suggesting you make a 10cm square section (much like a thread count for knitters) and see how it stretches and performs so you can calculate how much ease, if any, you’ll need in your patterns. I know you can change your stitching types and directions all over the place so technically you could create an amazingly controlable textile … just wish I knew how to do it!
Hello Stuart,
AWESOME site!! I am designing crochet swimwear any suggestions how to fit properly??
Looking forward to hearing back,
Randi
Hey Stuart,
What a fantastic site you have, I am looking forward to reading all the info you have. For the last two years I have been making dancing costumes for my own children and others from their dance school, I found it quite challenging to create patterns for stretch fabrics. I did a small amount of training at Tafe in active wear, but 95% of my studies dealt with woven fabrics. I have a few books on patternmaking for childrens wear, but found that they did not have a great deal of information regarding stretch fabrics in them.
From the quick look around your site I have had so far, you have a great deal of fantastic information, and your a Queenslander to boot!
Cheers from Brisbane
Lee-Ann
Stuart,
I came across your website on the internet and am looking forward to applying the content here to my assignment. I’m a first year fashion student at the University of Westminster. This is a beautiful find, thank you very much for your contributions.
Best regards,
Christina
Hi Stuart,
I am a 2nd year Fashion Contour student at the London College of Fashion and just wanted to let you know.. Your site is great!! It’s an awesome free resource to help alongside my studies.
Thank you
There are fashion colleges just about everywhere that should be able to teach you general pattern making. There are many books listed on my suggested reading list that are just brilliant and of course there’s this site. All you really need is the time to have a read!