Everything necessary to build the catsuit has been extensively covered in various places on this site because I treat each area of the body as a seperate entity. However since most people are after a quick answer to everything they don’t often read the whole site so they don’t understand the catsuit is a pattern made from a series of blocks. So I’ve decided to put up this page as a quick reference to all the bits you need to make a catsuit pattern. Let’s start by having a look at the illustration below.
I’ve split the front and back sketches in half to show you the basic catsuit options. Everything starts with the one piece block which is the body section of the catsuit as shown in the very left hand image. It’s then a simple matter of adding sleeves and legs. There are two types of sleeves: inset and raglan … the benefits of each type and how to make them is discussed here. There are two types of leggings: gymnast and center seam … the benefits of each type and how to make them is discussed here. That’s it really. You just need to read each of these pages to build the catsuit in sections.
Once you realise the catsuit is modular you might consider taking a look at some of the swimsuit patterns because you can equally incorporate those ideas into your catsuit. For example, an empire line is a great way to enhance bust support and a princess line can enhance bust femininity. You could make a multipanel catsuit bodice to really cinch the waistline in, or a low back bodice section so you don’t need to insert a zip. You could even use the center cut away section of the monokini to create a revealing, sexy feature for your catsuit.
My only word of caution to those starting out on catsuits for the first time is to consider how you want to get into it. Catsuits are generally very fitted at the waist, yet they have to stretch out over the hips first as you put them on. So unless the intended wearer is square all the way up, you’ll very likely need to cut the waist down to a point between waist and hips with something like a zip. You can do this anywhere around the garment (typically center front or center back), but unless your fabric is super super stretchy and doesn’t reach bind early, you’re going to need create an opening.
See also http://www.patternschool.com/?p=1125 … somewhere about halfway down the post. In that blog post I talk about a third possibility that I really dislike but should also include here …
There is another method which suggests runing an inside leg seam up the leg, across the crotch and down the other leg (the 2 panel catsuit) … with only an outside leg seam running up to the armpit (we’ll ignore the sleeve for the moment). These designers depend on the fabric stretching excessively along the center front/back line. I particularly dislike this concept with a passion because it causes a number of problems …
… that said, it’s a very popular style in low waist tights just about everywhere at the moment. Fortunately some designers add a small horizontal gusset instead of the normal vertical gusset to improve fit and prevent the ripples but I reckon it looks awful. Of course it just doesn’t work for a catsuit because everytime the wearer bends over and stretches the back of the garment the front crotch ripples tear into the front leg tendons at the crotch and the back legs ride up … resulting in cheecks overhanging when the wearer stands up again. Can you tell I’ve done a lot of these things?
The other thing I don’t like about 2 panel catsuits/tights is the angle that some designers cut the legs at. In order to stop the garment pulling down, they try to spread the legs outward to create more ease in the crotch (like lifting sleeves in a T shirt) … it’s essentially following bad with worse … it works, but it guarentees not only the 45 ripples either side of the front crotch as before, but also excess height at the top of the inside leg which creates even more ripples from the 45 degree ones down to the horizontal … try to imagine that if you can … it gives the appearance that the lower tummy is much rounder!!
Here is a basic illustration of what it looks like … and where the ripples show up.
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I’m not going to demonstrate how to make this one but just know that it exists!
Hi Stuart, i found your website a while ago, and thanks to these good pattern making examples i managed, to sew some of the easier pieces. My goal would be to sew a zentai kind catsuit, but with hood, socks and especially gloves i can’t make progress. Well, socks are ok, but changing their size won’t be so easy. Would it be possible to you to make “how to”-s also for gloves, for hoods and for socks? With some solid basics my trial and error tryouts would need much less time:)
Ling
how do i draw a princess line catsuit pattern? Or does this pattern already exist? The intent is to design a latex catsuit
I’ve been crafting catsuits, bodysuits, leotards and jumpsuits for a while now all based on this kwik-sew pattern: http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3052&Cat=Misses&Level=Leotards,_Activewear&QL=MissLeotards
I’ve modified it to include 2 additional seams along the sides of the body from armpit to ankle to accentuate the womens curves at the breast, waist, hip and upper thigh.
I’ve read your post on “the art of making patterns” and this really applies to me, as my work consists mostly of latex sheeting which is a little different to work with compared to lycra or any traditional fabrics.
Martin
Hi There Stuart,
I’ve been sewing one piece style garments for some time but these have always been based on a cringe “kwik-sew” pattern i picked up some time ago. I’ve manipulated it since to incorporate 2 additional side seams (modified the pattern) to allow for more shaping in the hip, waist, bust area. I was wondering if you could help me out, as i’m in search of a “princess line” catsuit pattern to be crafted out of latex sheeting. I’ve searched different pattern stores to find this pattern with no success, yet top latex designers all offer this style… so i know the pattern is out there!
I’ve read in different posts the art of making patterns, thus if a princess line pattern for a catsuit does not exist, this could be a viable alternative
best regards
Martin
Stuart, you said scuba Wetsuits are often done (waist fastening) in a similar way (like my zipper) to what you are saying however they use Velcro tags to hold the two together. Interesting. I took out my stretch zipper. It really doesn’t stretch that much, 2-3% with reasonable tension. The YKK salesman warned me about this. Maybe a few years ago I was deluding myself. Today I tried to slide it over my thighs and, either the waist would be very loose or it would be impossible to get over the thighs. Also, it might be quite hard to zip the upper and lower together when there was tension. So this makes me suddenly very interested in the scuba wetsuit system. How well does the Velcro keep the upper and lower together? How hard is the Velcro to fasten together all around? How long does it take to fasten? How wide are the tags, and how much space between them. I’m assuming there is space to allow stretching? Does one part overlap the other or do the tags extend past the websuit material? Does the waist have a nice look to it?
And how is a circumferential zip unlike a belt? Interesting concept. Scuba Wetsuits are often done in a similar way to what you are saying however they use velcro tags to hold the two together. Not quite sure how your idea would work practically when you need significant stretch in the garment around the waistline but I’m curious to follow your development.
Hi Stuart. Why would you need a zip on a stretch garment with an open waist? The idea is to zip leggings to a top at the waist with a horizontal circumferential zipper. Now you have a catsuit, unitard, skisuit, or whatever name you give these one piece garments. Now the leggings will not move down or the top move up. Hopefully you can unzip the waist while keeping your top layers on so you don’t freeze to death in the wilderness. And wearing a one piece garment keeps you warm, unlike two piece garments which open up in the back and blast -30 C air in to freeze your kidneys. A regular unitard is too hard to take off in the outdoors, you have to remove all your clothes. I think you get the picture?
And you don’t have to use drawstrings or belts to keep the leggings up. This is a bid deal to me. Why? Three years ago I had serious nerve damage called meralgia paresthetica caused by wearing a belt while bending over and removing paint from a concrete floor. Gradually the feeling in my legs disappeared. I had to go and buy really baggy clothes and huge underwear and wear suspenders for a year as even light pressure from clothes would be very painful. I thought I was going to be paralyzed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meralgia_paraesthetica
Belts, drawstings, non stretch waistbands, and woven clothes I believe must be the devil’s invention. They are so bad for you. They don’t allow much moisture to escape either. That is one reason I’m a fan of knit stretch clothing even though many people here in Canada are horrified by it. The human skin stretches as we flex our body. The fabric should too. The only real way of avoiding a belt is to end up with a one piece garment.
Hi Ben,
My obvious question is why would you need a zip on a stretch garment with an open waist? Perhaps I’ve misunderstood your question? On a side note, I would have imagined the stretch textile used in skiing is a much heavier weight than swim and dance … as such you would be able to reduce the horizontal negative ease and still maintain a very small negative ease on the vertical (say 1-2%). I think you’ll find that 2mm of stretch for every 100mm sewn is very little compensation to have to make during sewing if you zips are placed vertically … the public just wouldn’t notice!
Hi Stuart, here is the YKK website link for the stretch zipper. Note that I tried to find it by a search on their site, and it didn’t come up. I had the link saved in a research document. Looks like an ordinary zipper? It’s a patented zipper, but really it’s the standard coil zipper but the difference is that it’s sewn to stretch tape. The coils of course can stretch, it is the rigid woven tape that prevents stretching. According to the patent, they found that the zipper doesn’t come apart easily if it only stretches up to 10%. In some garments, like with my proposed waist zipper, the zipper stretches back when in place at the waist and so there is really no problem with it coming apart. You won’t find these zippers at any fabric retailer. You have to order samples directly from your YKK local representative, who will get samples made in Japan. So if you get samples, get as many as you can, maybe all long lengths you can shorten to various lengths. I believe a minimum order when your samples run out is 100 zippers. In Canada where I live they are sewn into ski racing unitards, the zipper being sewn in front from neck down so you can get the unitard on. Also note that I got my samples in 2005, hopefully they are still making them. http://www.ykkfastening.com/shop/search/goods.asp?goods=ZC050030&category=0000
Any ideas on how hard a waist zipper would be to fasten? What kind of detail, just sew to 1 cm folded over top of leggings and bottom of top? Where would be the best place start and stop the zipper ends. And how to sew it on? I’m thinking the fabric would have to be stretched while sewing onto the zipper?
Thanks for the link to the wetsuit article Art of Pattern Making. This is great news. Reading your comments, it sounds like standard pant patterns with front center seams are meant for baggy pants, not for stretchy skin tight garments. Initially I thought the gymnast block in front would look odd, but looking at your pictures, it looks great.
Hi Ben. It’s entirely possible to have a gymnast front and center seam back …. see The Art of making patterns part II … while this is done in PVC it can equally be done in lycra (you clearly wouldn’t need some of the extra seams but it demonstrates the theory).
People are constantly pulling up leggings these days for two reasons, 1. because the fabrics have too little rebound tension and 2. because they aren’t high waisted enough for that rebound to be of any use holding them up …
Can’t say I’ve come across a stretch zip as yet … do you have a link for them?
For 10 yrs I’ve been frustrated with men’s stretch legging designs. I wear these largely for recreation because they move with the body so well. Then I came across Stuart’s gymnast block. Is Stuart the only person in the world that knows about this design? I’ve never seen anything commercially made this way or any reference to it on the Internet or in books. I believe one of the reasons many women and men don’t wear tight leg garments is the dreaded camel toe or moose knuckle. Surely the dreaded center seam must cause it? So it occurred to me that the ideal design for both men and women is to have seams where they make sense. A gymnast block in the front, and a center seam in the rear. Now the seams are in the bodies natural fold lines. Stuart, would this work? Anyone else tried this?
The gymnast block also puts tension where it is desirable especially for men, on each side of crotch. Plus, coming from an engineering background, I realized the V-shaped intersection of crotch to leg on the gymnast design is like a perfect 90 sheet metal pipe intersection while the center seam design is like trying to bash a flat piece of sheet metal into a 3D 90 degree bend. Regular leggings appear to have a high stretch factor in this bend area because of this and when spreading the legs, such as when taking 3 steps at a time, the tension pulls the leggings down and away from the legs at the crotch. And for men this means that nothing stays in position, a reason why dancers wear the dance belt. And the other men don’t wear leggings because it is so uncomfortable wearing gstrings plus being too hot and not working for swimming in tight shorts. I think this is why you see people that wear leggings are constantly pulling them up. But it is true that leggings also move down with the motion of the body. This is where the catsuit comes in. Leggings really need to be worn as a catsuit, because now the top prevents the leggings from working down. But catsuits are hard to put on, especially when it’s –30 C while on a ski expedition. YKK did send me some stretch zippers, they stretch up to 10%. Has anyone tried putting these in the waist? Now you can separate the bottom from top and sit on the toilet. And have a completely different design for a top. This makes the catsuit look more normal.
Hi Gary. Pink’s catsuit is being copied everywhere at the moment … very cool concept … kinda reminds me of the Third Element movie! I’ve been asked to do something similar for an exotic dancer which is actually harder than it sounds. Glad the site helped you out and yes I’d love to see a photo of the finished garment here (if it’s presentable to the general public) or via email if it isn’t (hmmm that sounds wrong but you know what I mean
). Cheers!
Hi there! I was doing some research about a week ago and i stumbled upon your site. thank you!!! I am a designer in Portland OR and normally i create one of a kinds for local celebs, bands, dancers, performers, etc. recently i was asked to make an outfit similar to the one Pink wore in her Fun-house tour. the outfit is a sports mesh with 1 inch strips of fabric sewn to it hiding all of the private parts. the outfit is pretty revealing. so its basically a cat suit of sorts. Ive never work with that much of a stretchy material and was pretty nervous. so I began looking around on how to work with stretch fabric and viola! So… the next few days i spent reading, and reading, and read some more… boy are you thorough. i dint have a cad program but managed to work it out in AI. following your directions and converting cm to in. took the better part of a day to draft out both the one piece and the leggings. and fearfully put it all together in a mock up. i was surprised and so was the performer who commissioned the piece.. she is a contortionist so the suit is pretty well built.., when the mock up fit almost perfectly. simple 2 minute snip and sew and i was ready to take it apart and start the project. you made this whole process so very easy for me and i want to thank you so much. you have a new fan and follower.. if you are interested i do have photos of the outfit in creation. she will be picking it up on Friday as well. i can send them or post them somewhere.. again thank you, you saved me much time and grief…
Gary