The Bandeau

As simple as a strip of fabric, this strapless design is a favorite and timeless classic. The photo above is from 2002, and was beaded to match the necklace. The bandeau is one of the easiest pieces to design and just as easy to sew. You really don't need to consider darting in a bandeau, however if you do construct one based on the one piece block and insert the darting or gathering at the side seam you will need to bone the side seam to keep it from collapsing vertically. I really don't find it's necessary unless you are making for a C+ bust ... which should probably be in a strapped top anyhow.

Step One

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Draft a rectangle half the bust measurement x 0.88 minus 4cm (extra reduction due to the decreased height of the panel) by 12cm high (between 10cm and 14cm - simple design prference. Mark in a horizontal line halfway up the rectangle, representing the bust line. Mark in the bust point at half BP to BP x 0.88 from the right hand side of the rectangle (center front). At the left hand side of the rectangle (center back) mark a point 3cm above and below the bust line.

Step Two

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Draft in the top of the bandeau as a gradual curve from center front down to the center back guide. There shouldn't be any significant reduction in height until you begin to pass the bust point. Place the side seam in the middle of the rectangle or up to 1cm toward the center back of the middle if you want to balance things a little better on the body. The exact middle sits better on the retail shelf.

Step Three

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Remove the unnecessary guidelines. Retrace the front and back panels mirroring them on their respective center lines. Be sure to clearly label your pattern pieces with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I've shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm allowance for folding over 9mm elastic.

Step Four

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To modify the pattern for the draw string bandeau we go back to the end of step two. Narrow the height at the center back to 2cm ... this one we can put one of those little bikini clips into. Draft a vertical guide through the bust point. Draft a second vertical guide 2cm in from the center front. This represents a gap at the center front of 4cm ... you could make this gap wider on smaller busts for a sexier look. Divide the space between the vertical guides into quarters as illustrated.

Step Five

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Draft in the top and bottom bandeau lines allowing for the width of the bikini clip (1cm for 2cm wide clip). While the side seam is shown here, I wouldn't bother with it, making the pattern a single panel. This way it can be turned 90 degrees and worn as a halter by some people./p>

Step Six

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Slash and open the panel out to as much as you like to see in the gathers. I am not big on gathers in swimwear as I don't like how they mess up tension lines so I would only open it up until it formed a nice line with the rest of the panel as shown.

Step Seven

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Retrace the panel. Be sure to clearly label your pattern with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I've shown this pattern with 20mm allowance for a fold over casing with overlocked edge. Most industry would simply straight stitch the casing down from the inside assuming it doesn't need to stretch. I prefer to chain stitch from the outside because I'm not in such a hurry. I have allowed 10mm seam allowance for the 9mm fold over elastic and 10mm for the bikini clip.

The photo above shows that with a bit of practice you can narrow the height over the bust a little and contour the pattern significantly at the center front of the standard bandeau. This model is about a 10C (32C) and is fitted and shaped quite well even without bust darting!