Glossary

If you don't find the word or term you're looking for here, feel free to email it to me and I'll add it in. It's hard to know how much to add in here so it'll grow as time goes by.

Applique The process of applying a decorative piece of fabric onto another by stitching around the outside, usually by narrow spade zig zagging, of the decorative piece. These days many are iron on patches but this is not applique in the traditional sense.

Baby Doll A hip length, usually sheer, top that is designed to look sweet and innocent. Usually a lingerie term.

Ballerina Neck/ Dancer Neck This is a low neckline across the chest and peaked over the bust, with or without straps. Very common style for open neck tanksuits.

Bandeau A tube that wraps around the body covering only the breasts.

Basque waist A deep cut waist line that drops below the natural waistline, usually a deep V at the centre back. It may extend all the way to the bottom.

Bateau Neck / Sailors Neck A square or slightly curved neckline that runs straight across between the shoulders.

Bias Cut A garment in which the fabric has been cut diagonally across its grain. This is a technique used to exploit the distortion at 45 degrees to the grain of a non stretch fabric. Usually used in sleepwear or light weight gowns to create a closer than normal fit.

Binding A narrow folded strip of fabric (sometimes bias cut) used to encase the raw edge of the fabric and/or elastic.

Boy Leg Shorts Underwear or swimwear shorts whose leg line is level with the crotch.

Bike Shorts Close fitting shorts extending to mid thigh or just above the knee. May or may not be fitted with a gusset.

Bodystocking Catsuit made from a sheer fabric.

Bodysuit A one piece garment that may or may not have arms, but no legs. There is usually a snap connector between the legs. Usually a lingerie term.

Boning Once made from whalebone but now a strong plastic or sprung metal, boning is used to give rigidity to bustiers and corsets. Early underwires were curved by laminating thin strips of whalebone around a curved form, glueing and then wrapping them with silk thread.

Brazilian Back A narrow style bikini back that orginated in Brazil. It can mean any narrow width back, but technically refers to a bikini back in which the leg line sits inside the outermost crest of the cheeks without sitting between them.

CAD Abbreviation of 'computer aided design'. It refers to a software program installed on a computer to do two or three dimensional technical drawings. The most well known CAD programs are AutoCAD, Corel Draw and Adobe Illustrator. There are a number of CAD programs designed specifically for fashion, but this author considers them over priced for general use. Many industry pattern makers are abandoning the traditional Gerber CAD software for cheaper programs like Corel Draw and off the shelf wide format printers. Almost all my work is now done in Corel Draw and exported to whatever file format the client requires.

Catsuit A close fitting, single piece garment that covers the body, legs and often arms as well. Mostly used as a costume in dance or theater, though it has its place in an intimate setting.

Cinched Waist Reduction of the waist using a garment, belt or straps. A corset is the traditional means of both cinching and shaping the waist.

Crop Top A T shirt or tank top which has had the bottom 'cropped' off just below the bust. They used to be worn over aerobic wear in the 1980's.

Demi-Cup A demi-cup is a bra or bra component that supports the breast but does not cover more than the lower third. Nipples and the top of the breast are uncovered. Preformed foam demi-cups without wires are commonly inserted into swimwear to add boost or a small amount of shape.

Empire Line A garment design line that sits horizontally just below the bust.

Faux A word used to mean false or imitation. For example faux fur. French origin.

Fitted Point Sleeve A sleeve with a section that extends to and ties on to the base of the pointing or middle finger. It's purpose is to ensure the sleeve stays in place during movement. Commonly used in dance or theater.

G String A small fabric panel which covers the crotch only. The panel is held in place by string ties around the waist and between the cheeks. Variations include the Y and V Strings.

Gusset Traditionally, a fabric panel inserted into a garment at the crutch to improve fit or comfort. Gussets are found in lingerie and swimwear, the later being mostly as a lining panel. Strictly a gusset can be placed anywhere in a garment to improve fit or comfort. Alternative gusset uses would be between the fingers in gloves, for example.

Half-Cup A half-cup (or semi-cup) is a bra or bra component that supports the breast but only coversthe lower half including the nipple. This cup or component is very suitable for low cut clothing while still offering support not really found in a demi-cup.

Halter The term halter neck refers to any garment that wraps or ties behind the neck, rather than one that has shoulder straps.

Keyhole A keyhole is a small opening in a garment that is used as an aesthetic feature. Sometimes it forms part of the neck opening in order to allow a garment to be put on and taken off. A keyhole can be anywhere on a garment, though typically you see it over the bust or lower back.

Lining A separate layer of fabric used on the inside of a garment for comfort or modesty reasons.

Lycra A Dupont trademarked name for a two-way stretch, knitted fabric blend of nylon and elastane (spandex).

Maillot Any one piece woman's swimsuit, usually based on the tank suit.

Monokini Traditionally refers to a bottom only half of a bikini with straps that go across the bust, and do not necessarily conceal them. In modern application, monokini straps are wide enough to conceal the bust. Many designers are now calling any one piece swimsuit with side or center cut outs as a monokini. They are technically incorrect. These are still maillots.

Shelf Bra There are many definitions of shelf bra, but for the purposes of swimwear this means a cropped tank darted below the bust, that may or may not include cups, which is built into the swimsuit. It is a good way to support a larger bust without the use of underwires. It usually has a wide elastic sewn into the base of the shelf.

Surplice A style in which two layers of fabric cross the bodice from opposite sides. Full surplice extends from side seam to side seam, whereas half surplice usually crosses between princess lines. Historically the upper panel was gathered to help disguise the tummy and add interest.

Thong The narrowest back possible beyond a G string. Usually the thong is no wider than the width of the elastic used to bind it. The design can be used for a one piece or separates.

Trapeze Top A tank top with a flared/ruffled hem. The design gets its name from the female trapeze artists that became known for wearing them.

Underwire A device used to force a particular shape to the bust by curving below each breast and supporting the bra cups. There is some contention about the use of underwires in swimwear ... women have successfully sued for damages when the underwires which heated in the sun penetrate their casing and injure the wearer (even though washing instructions were not followed). For this reason I do not recommend the use of underwires in swimwear.

Unitards See catsuit. Alternative name for catsuit.