The Halter Neck Maillot

The term halter neck refers to any swimsuit that wraps or ties behind the neck, rather than one that has shoulder straps. Technically even a string bikini is a halter neck, yet we'd never describe one that way. Halter necks are certainly flattering for a larger bust but not so flattering for a larger tummy.

One of my halter neck swimsuits from back in 2003. This is just one style of halter neck. The term refers to any swimsuit that wraps or ties behind the neck, rather than one that has shoulder straps.

The sketch below illustrates the pattern we're going to make. This pattern is based on the size 10B/C one piece block we created previously (using 12% horizontal negative ease and 0% vertical ease). Before you start each step, click on the link marked "Illustration for this Step". A pop up window with an illustration for that step will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration.

Step One

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Draft in a guide line vertically upward from the bust point. Extend it about 6 cm beyond the shoulder. 7cm would be normal for this fabric but due the the long thin nature of the garment I'd suggest sortening it just a fraction, you may even need to shorten it more later. Draw a guides the width of your proposed strap evenly about the first guide.

Step Two

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Sketch in a long smooth neck line. Start the curve all the way from the top of the strap and end it in a V about 5cm below the center front bust line. Yes this is a fold and a V. Draft in a horizontal guide 4cm inward from the botom of the dart, square up and down a little. This represents a big chuck of pattern you are about to take out of the block. The reason is that we're just about to cut below the bust line. I've also emphasised where the original side seams were before they were curved off. Mark this in as a guide line.

Step Three

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Slide the back panel over the front until they touch at the orginal waist as indicated by the guides. This point is the rotation point.

Step Four

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Rotate the back panel around the rotation point until the back side seam lines up with the guide as illustrated.

Step Five

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Draft in the back line to a point a little lower than the center front. Stay at least 4cm above the waist or you may start to get ripples in the garment. The curve can be wherever you like, but I find it sits best when it passes through the bottom of the old dart. The side seam highlighted in red will become the new side seam.

Step Six

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Separate the front and back panels.

Step Seven

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Remove unnecessary guidelines. If necessary retrace the front and back Panels. Be sure to clearly label your pattern pieces with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I've shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm allowance for folding over 9mm elastic.