The Palette Line Maillot

The palette line is one that goes around the body about 2-3 inches above the bust point. I'm uncertain where the name originates, but it may have something to do with female artists' aprons that used to tie around the chest just above the bust point, leaving the arms and neck free to paint. Paint spatter would be left on the artist's clothing above the apron line only. If anyone knows the truth about this line's origin please let me know.

This strapless design is really suited to B to C cup busts. Smaller busts don't always manage to hold the garment in place, while D or larger tend to pull the garment down because of the limited darting possible in the design ... not to mention being uncomfortable from lack of support. I find the design reminiscent of earlier years, cruise ships and sailor colours with gold trims and buttons. Anyone over 40 will know what I mean! Of course there's no reason a modern adaptation of this style would not again be successful given the design's modesty, comfort and distinctive sophistication. Many of these designs also had darted floating shelf bras that were anchored at the bust line and side seams, with a firm elastic that ran across the empire line. This helped to stop the garment dropping while at the same time lifted larger busts for shape definition. These days you'd be better off with a demi cup built in under the palettel line (imagine a half height strapless bra). Without a built in bra (a shelf bra is still ok) this design only works when your block has 0% negative vertical ease. You may wish to provide removable straps with this garment.

The sketch above represents the pattern we're about to make. This pattern is based on the size 10B/C one piece block we created previously. Before you start each step, click on the link marked "Illustration for this Step". A pop up window with an illustration for that step will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration.

Step One

Illustration for this Step

Trace around your front and back one piece blocks. Draw two rectangles as guides, the first goes from the center front to the bust point and is 7cm above the bust line ... the second goes from the bust point to the side seam and is 4cm high. Note, the second rectangle is parallel to the dart line (which may not necessarily be parallel to the bust line).

Step Two

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Draft in the palette line as shown. It should create a right angle at the center front, run parallel with the first rectangle before curving gradually toward the top left corner of the second rectangle.

Step Three

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We close out a 1cm dart directly above the bust point to help tweak the pattern a little tighter over the bust. Recurve all the lines smoothly as shown.

Step Four

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Transfer the palette panel across to the back block being careful to accurately line up the bust line on the back block. Rotate the palette panel around a point on the side seam to close out a further 1cm dart, but don't rotate it so far as to create a side seam that curves inward of vertical.

Step Five

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Retrace the panels if necessary. Be sure to clearly label your patterns with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I've shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm for fold over elastics. I would suggest using fashion fabric as the lining for the palette panel.