The Racer Back Maillot

I have to admit to not liking this design very much. While it may be popular and stable, aesthetically it simply doesn't work. Furthermore, puting them on and taking them off can be quite a stretch. They are comfortable however.

The racer back tank suit does help teach a very important lesson. That a strap can apparently go around a corner while staying straight.

The sketch above represents the pattern we're about to make. This pattern uses the front panel from the tanksuit we created previously. Before you start each step, click on the link marked "Illustration for this Step". A pop up window with an illustration for that step will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration.

Step One

Illustration for this Step

Place the front panel from the tanksuit pattern (without seam allowance) against the back block by lining up the bust line. Draft in a guide the width of the front strap that starts at the mid shoulder and makes a 45° angle with center back. Now this may seem like it won't line up but it will. What is important is that the strap is the same width. Draft in a second guide half the width of your T Bar extending from neck to bust line and parallel to the center back. About 4-5 cm is adequate.

Step Two

Illustration for this Step

Draft in a new armhole curve all the way from the front panel, through to a point on the strap guide 2cm short of the end (as we did for the tanksuit). The curve should be smooth and gradual. Draft in the neck side of the strap making a right angle with the center back.

Step Three

Illustration for this Step

Retrace the panels. Be sure to clearly label your patterns with a title, panel name, size, cutting instructions, author’s name, date and revision number. Finaly, add seam allowance to the pattern based on how you intend to assemble it. I've shown this pattern with 10mm allowance for overlocked seams (8mm to blade, 2mm off cut) and 10mm for fold over elastics.

Step Four

Illustration for this Step

For the sake of completeness, I've added ths supplementary step to show how to add a hole at the center back. Quite a lot of designers do this in their one piece racer backs, only its usually done for horizontal negatve eases of less than 8%. If you were to add this type of cut out to 12%, while it would still work. you would end up with a few ripples at the sides. Notice that this is an oval not a circle. It is as close to the arm hole as the strap width.