Raglan Sleeves

I'm really not happy treating the raglan sleeve as a block because techniclly it's a pattern based on the sleeve block, but when you use a sleeve on a catsuit it's more often than not a raglan sleeve. In other words you're more likely to use a raglan sleeve for swimwear, surfwear and diving than you are to use a standard sleeve. Really it's only dance and skating that use the standard sleeve. One thing I will say for raglan sleeves is that they're really easy to put together.

We'll be making a block for the sketch above. The light orange is the front panel and the dark orange is the back panel. Before you start each step, click on the link marked "Illustration for this Step". A pop up window with an illustration for that step will help guide you through the instructions. At the end of each step your draft should match the illustration. If it doesn't go back to the start of that step and work your way through again.

Step One

Illustration for this Step

Trace around your front and back one piece blocks (I'm only showing the top half of the blocks for space reasons).

Step Two

Illustration for this Step

Put the front and back blocks together at the shoulder and line up the shoulder seam horizontally. Place the sleeve block up against the arm hole, being careful to line up the notch with the shoulder seam. Remember that we've already added a couple of centimeters to the sleeve head so we don't need to add it again.

Step Three

Illustration for this Step

Draft in a curve from the front of the sleeve head gradually up to a point on the neck that matches your sketch (red line). This should be a fairly flat curve. Measure the length of this curve. Mark the length on your flexicurve ruler and use it to draw in the new front arm hole (blue line). Recheck that both lines are the same length. The underarm area of the sleeve and armhole should remain unchanged, as illustrated. Repeat the process for the back.

If you look closely, you'll notice the little fraction that's removed from the bodice is actually added to the sleeve head, both front and back.

Step Four

Illustration for this Step

Remove unnecessary guidelines, points and numbers. Cut out or retrace the arm block(s). Make sure you clearly label your block with a title, panel name, size (and any ratio notation), date, author’s name and version number. Do not add seam allowance to the block!